How to Make Stained Glass

What you are making

The copper foil method joins separate pieces of coloured sheet glass. Adhesive copper tape wraps each edge, and solder bonds the copper into a continuous seam. It does not colour ordinary glass: the colour is already in the art glass. Painted plastic or painted glass projects use a different process.

Start with an indoor decorative panel, not an architectural window. Our Ruby Nine Patch has nine straight-sided pieces; the Daisy Medallion adds more joints without tight inside curves.

1. Print and prepare templates

Print the correct paper edition at 100 percent. Measure the test square with a ruler, trim the tiles and align their repeated lines in the overlap. Keep one intact copy as your cartoon. Number the pieces on a second copy and mark the colour and desired texture direction. These templates show seam centres; remove the allowance needed for your foil and glass combination using pattern shears or an equivalent method. Test the allowance on two scraps first.

2. Score and break the glass

Place each template to avoid flaws and leave room to run a score to an accessible edge. Use the cutter according to its instructions and score once with steady pressure; do not repeatedly retrace a score. Break along it with appropriate pliers. Cut away waste in stages. If a break runs into the wanted shape, recut that piece rather than hiding a crack under foil.

3. Grind and dry fit

Use the wet grinder to smooth sharp edges and make small fit corrections. Return each piece to its number on the cartoon. Aim for consistent narrow spaces appropriate to the foil, not tight pressure between glass edges. Check the panel width, height and squareness as you work. A grinder corrects small errors; it is not a substitute for cutting a piece near its final shape.

4. Clean, dry and foil

Wash off grinding residue and dry the glass completely. Centre the foil tape on the edge so the exposed margins are even on both faces. Fold it over and burnish it firmly with a suitable tool. Repair torn foil and avoid bulky overlaps. Choose foil width for the actual glass thickness and intended seam; one width does not fit every sheet.

5. Tack and solder

Restrain the dry-fitted panel on the cartoon with a suitable layout system. Apply a compatible flux sparingly, tack junctions and solder the seams using the iron and solder manufacturers’ settings. Work in sections and avoid dwelling on one area, which can crack glass or loosen foil adhesive. Let the panel cool before turning it over onto a supported surface to solder the second face.

6. Finish the edge and hanging points

Fit a perimeter treatment suited to the panel size. Hanging rings need a structural connection into suitable seams or framing; adhesive foil alone is not a reliable support. If you are unsure how to support the panel, ask a stained glass instructor before hanging it. This small decorative template is not a structural glazing design.

7. Clean and inspect

Remove flux according to its instructions, rinse where appropriate and dry thoroughly. Check for sharp solder, cracks, loose foil and weak joints. Patina is optional: use a compatible product only after cleaning, follow its directions and finish with an appropriate polish. Do not mix cleaning chemicals. Display indoors using hardware rated for the finished weight.

Troubleshooting your first panel

A growing panel usually points to inadequate seam allowance or accumulated fit errors. Stop and compare each row to the cartoon. Foil lifting commonly follows wet or dirty edges, weak burnishing or excessive heat. Lumpy solder may indicate inconsistent heat, dirty copper or unsuitable flux; practise on a small scrap assembly before reheating a finished panel repeatedly.

Set up a practical workspace

Use a stable, heat-resistant bench with good light and a surface you can clean. Wear safety glasses for cutting and grinding, keep food and drinks away, and collect glass fragments in a rigid container. Keep children and pets out of the work area. Use a wet grinder as directed by its manufacturer; do not dry-grind glass.

Follow the solder, flux and patina manufacturers’ safety instructions. Use effective local fume extraction while soldering, wash hands after handling materials, and clean the bench with damp methods. Lead-free solder still requires care with heat, flux and fumes. A first class is useful for learning safe tool handling and recognising a good score.

Further instruction

See Delphi’s stained glass workshop guidance for workspace setup and its general tips for handling lead, flux and cleanup. Follow the instructions supplied with your own tools and chemicals.